Builders Arms Hotel, Fitzroy – The Age Good Food Guide review

The Builders offers the best things about your corner local – beer on tap, sport on the telly and weekly specials – then dials up the glamour in the rear dining room with food that’s a cut above most pubs in town.

There are dishes that will never leave the menu – the emoji-like potato bun cheeseburger with golden fries, the oversized fish pie brimming with goldband snapper, trout and prawns – but there are also surprises to be found. A brilliantly hued tumble of heritage beetroot with creamy stracciatella; a virtuous side of chopped broccoli tossed with freekeh, almond and snipped herbs; and a dome of sticky date pudding with rivers of butterscotch sauce and fresh cream.

The place is perpetually packed and slightly on the pricey side (hello $110 club steak), but you can bring anyone – from a promising date to a fussy grandparent – and they’ll be content.

Must-order: Whipped cod roe dip with grassy olive oil and fingers of toasted flatbread.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.